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With a nod to my true nature this turned out not to be the case. NOLA was in the middle of a cold snap. Warmer, yes, than mid-coast Maine, and slightly drier than Portland, Oregon, it was still cold, with a stiff wind, and us without our basic winter garb- silks, balaklava, thermo-kevlar-diachrotic inner and outer liners, boots, hats, gloves, Inuit nose warmers.
But really, really wonderful, with a feeling of history and grace and slightly the worse-for-wear beauty that I thought only I possessed.
Here's me at Joey Bonhage's studio. Note the appearance of disbelief. We had ducked into the Commander's Palace for brunch, and found Joey was closed when we finally re-emerged from our food coma. Lafayette Cemetery, across the street, was also closed but we visited St. Louis No. 1 twice to make up for it.
This was a grave disappointment, but we recovered quickly and after another streetcar ride felt nearly back to normal.
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We were there by luck and happenstance and the good fortune of knowing Peace Corps Dave, a New Orleans stalwart who turned us onto the parade, welcomed us to his place for a pre-party ( we bailed on the post party due to flop-belly- a condition well known to travelers far and near) and is an all around good person to know.
We wandered, took a couple of guided walking tours, ate, drank, wandered some more and got familiar with the tiniest portion of a really wonderful city.
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